The scheme of catching fish on a branch leash x. Retractor Leash. Unobvious subtleties of gear

Once upon a time, one of the options for leash snap-ins (diversion leash) was widely publicized and, as a result, widely used in the USA All over the world, it is customary to call this snap-off a leash "Caroline". A sliding bullet, a mono-neck leash, catching a bass ... - these are the main associations with “that” catching. But, like many other things in the Russian context and under the influence of "our" tendencies, everything undergoes changes, sometimes minor, but most often significant ... Here’s how the tooling with the name, which I really do not like, arose, “Moscow equipment” .

This is the first myth about the birth of such a successful installation ( diverter lead). There are many other options. Many people know that old-timers in the Russian hinterland have long been hunted by similar methods in similar ways. One has only to start a conversation with one of these anglers, as it immediately becomes clear that the angler is "in the subject." He used to catch about half a century ago, and now it is called “Moscow ...”, after which a special relationship with Moscow inventors arises.

Mobility of a bait on a branch leash

So, from all previous publications devoted to the branch leash, it is possible to make an indisputable conclusion that in 90% of cases silicone bait (usually a twister) mounted on an offset hook is used in the branch leash. It seems to me that for catching perch it is better to fix the offset lid rigidly, i.e. bind it, for example, using the node "palomar". But for zander fishing, bersha, pike, it would be much better to give freedom to the bait. This is easily done using a specialized wobbler knot (loop - see photo below). With small broaches, and even more so jerking, the twister on the offset at each stop will be very attractive to deviate one way, then the other, then, radically changing the initial trajectory of movement, go off steeply on a tangent. Watching more how to ship it ... But more on that later. Not once noticed that it is on the perch, bersh and pike, it has almost decisive importance. I made an analogy with fishing for wobblers. There, too, the more the wobbler deviates when jerking in one direction or another, the, as a rule, the "spotty" responds better to this. Although again, not so simple.

Very carefully it is necessary to take and to the selection of the diameter of the fishing line when fishing on the branch leash. This indicator greatly affects the degree of freedom in the game. The thinner the mono, the better. The main thing is to know when to stop. When fishing from a boat or offroad, you can use the thinnest leashes. But, as a rule (when catching the "test" predator), I do not use a fishing line with a diameter of less than 0.18 mm. Accordingly, the more complex the conditions, the thicker the leash should be. I think this rule will be remembered by Sergei Balashov for a long time after being unable to win the Kremlin Cup 2007 competition just because he couldn’t lift a little less than a two-piece to the six-meter pike perch. .. And this is only because the fishing line of the branch leash with a diameter of 0.18 mm burst when Sergei didn’t even half lift the pike perch out of the water! It's a shame, just no words, so always soberly assess your chances. For me, the most common diameter of the diverter lead is 0.21-0.24 mm, which is quite enough in any conditions.
   It would not be serious to talk about extensibility and “memory” of this very monolesque. With a diversion leash length of 1.5-2 m, you are unlikely to feel any difference. The main thing is to use high-quality, reliable fishing line for the branch leash. Its consumption is minimal, so one hundred meter reel is enough for the whole season. The main requirements are resistance to abrasion of stones and coquina, with which (in a catchy place) the leash is always in contact. During the last season, I mainly used two brands of fishing line: Team Daiwa ADES fluorocarbon and Owner Broad mono-wheel.
   But, in order to achieve the correct play of the bait on a branch leash, you need to make some effort. Not with all the models of twisters and not at any offset person your bait will always be equally seductive for a predator. Consider the options for finalizing the game bait for a drain leash, I have only four.

The first tip for a branch leash
The most scrupulous attitude to the selection of "rubber". Twister Twister strife. In addition to its geometry, the softness of the silicone itself is of great importance. True, rigidity is a fixable matter. A few minutes in boiling water, and the bait becomes the softest. After that, I spread the twisters on some flat surface, letting them cool (usually within 5-10 hours). At this moment they are sticky. To give them the "original properties" will be the easiest way to process them with silicone spray. Fits any odorless and with a minimum amount of additives. If this operation is not done, the twister's tail will often stick to the body during posting. From inexpensive rubber, I like Action Plastics 3FG the most. This, at the moment, and the most common model among fans of catching on the branch leash. Of the expensive ones, I would single out the twisters of the Megabass Counter Grab 3. It is difficult to say what exactly its intricate form attracts the predator to, but it does it regularly.

So, I think it is clear that the geometry of the twister and the softness of his body directly affect the nature of the game on the diversion leash. Do not stop there, experiment, only this way opens all the best and unexplored.

Second tip for the lead leash
Who would have thought that a small lead pellet could fundamentally change the result of fishing or the course of the competition ... and this is so!

One of the most terrible things that you might encounter is spinning a silicone bait around its axis on a diversion leash. When checking the snap-in functionality, this can be easily noticed. Rotation arises due to imbalance. As a rule, this occurs due to the small mass of the offsetset in combination with a rather large or rigid twister. But whatever the reason, this is no easier for us.
   Experimentally, we select a grain and clamp it on the hook handguard - the twister does not rotate, the primary task is accomplished (the factory versions are a little different for our case - their lead load is often too large). The above method can be adjusted not entirely successful layout "offsetsetnik-gum" in the field. This is useful when you are already on the pond, and there is simply nothing else in your pockets.
Unfortunately, with such a load, there is no need to talk about any free, sweeping game on a side leash. But as they say, choose the lesser of two evils. Either the twister rotates and bites at it very badly, or we stabilize it with a pellet. Pecking will be better, but not much. But if we want to achieve chaotic movements of the bait with jerks, the pellet should be fixed in front of the offset lamp. And with sharper jerks, the bait loaded in this way plays almost at the very bottom. In this way, I very successfully caught perch and perch with bersh. It is hard to say what exactly the predator reminds the lure movements of the lure on the branch leash in the immediate vicinity of the bottom, but here, for example, this method works very well on the lower Moscow River.

The third tip for the lead leash
Very responsibly go to the choice of offset. It is precisely this element of equipment that determines, if not all, then very much in a diversion leash. It has two main objectives: to ensure the correct play of the bait and reliably detect the pecked fish. I think it is not necessary to say that for one specific size of the "gum" you need a well-defined offset. It makes no sense to clutter up the material with an impressive enough pivot table, it would be somewhat absurd, but I think it’s worth pointing out the most working models of hooks. These are: Owner J-Hook, Gamakatsu Slim Style, Excalibur Wide Gap Hooks, Owner RIG "N Hook.

Fourth tip for the diverter
   Using slug (this kind of silicone bait). As a rule, it is the twister's tail that interferes with the active play of the bait during jerks. It is clear that if something interferes, you need to get rid of it. You can remove the tail of a simple twister - you get a slug. But it is better to use specialized models or some of their parts. As a rule, more dense and “weighty” silicone is used in slugs, which is what we need. More weight of the silicone bait itself, higher hydrodynamics - “at the exit” we will get a richer game on the diversion leash. But in this way there is one drawback. All that does not have a tail, well attracts zander, bersh, to a lesser extent pike, but with perch just a disaster. As a rule, he pecks on slugges with a branch leash at times worse, he uses classical twisters. So, going fishing, do not forget to put in the box and a few "bottom gliders", but it is hardly worth using them if you mostly catch perch.

Purposeful catching "Krupnyak" on the lead leash
I assure you that you are greatly mistaken if you think that catching on a side leash is 95% catching perch. This statement may be true, for example, for residents of the Moscow region. Just because here only “whales” remained in large numbers. Yes, and then on the same Moskva River one can very well hunt for large fish with the help of a diversion leash, and, believe me, this has a direct meaning.
   Only the tackle itself should be a little different, and in the equipment big changes are foreseen. Catching with the help of the fishing gear of “normal” fish is not the goal to prove that you can catch everything on it ...
   On   diverter lead  and pike and pike perch, all other things being equal, are usually better. Of course, this pattern can be traced far from all places. The harder it is to catch a jig in some place, the better it will bite on the lead leash. “Difficult” jig places are sharp edges, local rigid patches on which the predator concentrates. Jig - bait, designed primarily for quick search and catch of active and semi-active fish. The speed of fishing with a drainage leash is much less, literally in one very compact place you can seduce underwater inhabitants for a long time. Approximately the same situation with steep edges.
   In short, the jig “flies” over this very edge, and a diversion lead can be used to catch every square meter thoroughly.
   Now we will touch directly on those changes that will help us successfully catch a large predator on a branch leash. First, it is better to choose rubber a little larger. As a rule, this will not diminish the number of bites of small pike perch, but there will be a more realistic chance to catch a pike. Although, as it seems to me, the pike (with its passivity) is primarily affected by the animation itself, and only then - the size of the bait. That is, a well-fed pike easily swallows a 4-inch twister if it is interested in his game. For perch, things are a little different. He is more inclined to respond precisely to changing the size of the bait, a decrease in the first place, and only then - on her game. But do not be mistaken - just not to “persuade” just a small bait of a full pike perch, you also need to “work with your hands” correctly, in the literal sense of the word ...
   In terms of catching large fish on a diversion leash, I really like the twisters Yum Wooly Curltail 3. It can be seen that the marking “Carolina” is on the packaging ... The main thing is to choose exactly the appropriate size offset.
If there was no one to cut off the monophilous leashes at the time of biting and when they were planted, we would have caught the grief and did not know grief, tying the bait directly, using the “free knot”. But still, in our ponds there lives a toothy pike, which is so easy to cope with monoleskoy. The treatment here is only one thing - to put a metal leash and ... enjoy the fight. But (according to my observations) the steel leash in the branch, whether it is from wire or powered material, definitely reduces the number of bites. This is inevitable, and we have to put up with it. I remember one competition, when only for this reason I did not put the leash. The result - 4 slices in two days, but managed to catch a lot more than the rest, which resulted in victory. I don’t even want to think what it would be if the leash was still standing. At the training sessions before these competitions, the pattern was clearly traced: there is a leash - two bites in two hours, no leash - about six bites ... and no bass, only perches and pikes ...
   But nevertheless, when you purposefully catch a pike or the activity of a fish is slightly higher than “no”, I still put the leash. At the same time, and I am gathering statistics ...

In my opinion, it is best to use a thin lead from hard wire. Only between the leash and the bait must necessarily put the winding ring. What does this give us? Maximum freedom when jerking, but this is not the main. It is the winding ring that excludes the “biting” of the leash behind the offset lug. It is difficult to explain in words how this happens, but the one who tried it knows. So, with the clockwork ring it never happens. And one more tip - choose the most rigid rings so that the leash itself does not jump out of the ring. I used to lose the bait both on the wiring and after the fish bite. Monolesku use diameter 0,24mm.

Separately, it is worthwhile to dwell on the main line for the branch leash — braid.

With purposeful perch fishing, as well as for catching the rest of the chishnik, it seems to me that the use of completely different braids would be more justified.

When catching perch, as a rule, soft wiring is used; if jerks are present, it is very rare.
The main style of animation: drawstring, wiggling, slight twitching and pulling along the bottom. When fishing for pikeperch and pike, I prefer sharper, more active wiring, but with long pauses. That is, the wiring consists of constant jerks - something very similar to the classic "wobbler twitch." Recently, for the first case, I use loose "polyethylene" based on four strands. When you pull it very quickly straightens in line. But in the second case, a tough braid will be more suitable, as a rule, based on eight threads, and as it often happens, having an abbreviation on the label, for example, Ultra Dyneema. These are, most often, very tight and smooth cords. They and cast a little further, and in general they are more suitable for jerking wiring for both near and far distances. And sometimes you have to throw 70-80 m. A bright representative of the first group - Unitika, the second - Gesox WX 8.
   In this case, the requirements for classic coils are minimal: weight, smoothness, cross winding, provided by an endless screw, in a word, everything, as always. But spinning need different. For catching perch both at the near and far distances, it is necessary to have a medium-fast or fast rod and not quite “rapier-like”, but a bit softer. Due to this quiet animation, but occasionally arising the need to throw away. In the second case, an “extra-fast” tool is needed to carry out the clearest jerks even with side wind. Tweaking with a long spinning is not very convenient, so in this case, I tend to average lengths. But when choosing, one should not forget the factor that fishing on a diversion leash is closely related and often has something in common with fishing on a jig. Therefore, a "painless" transition to another class of baits is only welcome.
And from the novelties I would pay attention to the following models. From the "Koreans" - spinning Black Hole Conquest 2.45 m long and with a dough of 7-35 g, which fully complies with the requirements put forward to it. Of the "Americans" - already familiar to us Avid, but in a new version (2.74 m long and with a test of 7-21 g). Compared with its predecessor, it lost 20% in weight, while increasing indicators such as sensitivity and strength. And all this thanks to the applications of the new IPC (Integrated Poly Curve) technology. This is for the rods of the expensive class. And among the more affordable options, I would have focused your attention on the Black Hole Classic spinning 2.4 m long with a test of 2-7 g (according to the "universal sports" opinion, the real test is somewhere up to 18-19 g!) in which for several seasons Anatoly Nazarkin and Artem Mishin, who are considered professionals in the sporting environment for catching on the lead leash, are not parting ...

In the process of catching predatory representatives of reservoirs, such as pike perch, pike  or perch, anglers face certain difficulties, one of which can be dealt with using a diverter leash. Predatory species of ichthyofauna have always been considered a welcome trophy of the majority, both professionals and novices fishing.

Toothy predators often occupy hard-to-reach areas of water bodies, where the use of standard blades or jig baits is simply useless. But thanks to their ingenuity and resourcefulness fishermen came up with a way outwith the situation equip spinning rods  branch leads, installation of which does not cause any difficulties, but the bite of the fish becomes much more active.

The high catch rate of the branch leash was achieved. by separating the bait and sinker. With this such  The design feature of the tooling helped solve other important issues.

1. Thanks to the diverter lead, it was possible to reduce the speed of the wiring almost to the point of stopping the winding of the fishing thread. Under the influence of the undercurrent, the artificial bait constantly remains in operation, creating the illusion of standing fish in one place. Moreover, if the live bait was abandoned to the predator's location, it is necessary to pounce on it.
2. Due to the diverter leash, it is possible to control the bottom relief features. At the same time, moving along the soil, raises a cloud of dirt, and the bait itself continues to move slightly higher. The hook does not hook on the underwater obstacles, which greatly reduces the number of hooks.
3. Due to the simple device at great depths, you can use silicone bait of any size, which allows you to choose the best bait for pike or pikeperch.

The efficiency of using the diverter leash is particularly beneficial when paired with active silicone baits, such as a twister or a vibrating tail. And, as you know, such products are the cheapest compared to the presented counterparts in fishing stores.

Features of installation of the tap-off lead

To make your own classic leash yourself can be useful simple fishing productsthat every fisherman has.

To connect an aft leash on a pike-perch or other predator of freshwater bodies, and the main fishing thread with a load will be required triple swivel shape  or equivalent carbine. In this case, the binding of all components is performed reliably. fishing knot.

Selection of artificial baits for tackle

It is possible to refer to the most popular bait for catching of predatory representatives of reservoirs on a branch leash classic jig gum.

Often, beginner spinningists who use a combination of a “pull-bait leash” have a minor problem - rotation of silicone mold  around its axis in the process of posting gear. To combat this, it is enough to fix a pellet of lead on the offserer's forearm and the tackle will become stable.

Features bait wiring

When catching most freshwater predators use similar techniques of posting. In the process of fishing from the coastal line, long-distance casting of gear is performed taking into account the characteristics of the bottom of the reservoir. Spinning should rattle the ground  while clearly, controlling the process of posting on the tip of the rod.

When the bait falls into the water, you must wait until it reaches the bottom. Immediately upon the appearance of a weakening of the fishing thread, reeling begins. In this case, the coil can be rotated both slowly and at a fast pace. The main thing in this wiring to withstand pauses. Delays in a couple of seconds are done after 3-4 turns of the spool spool, which is well represented in the video, catching on the diverter leash.

It is important to constantly control the line tension. With any hint of biting, a sharp cutting is performed. This is primarily due to the strong enough jaws of the predator, which simply won't be able to break through with a weak hook and the fish will go off the hook.

Hauling gear with a lead

Even despite the powerful cutting, there is no guarantee of a successful pike or pike perch. After the predator was hooked, it instantly aware of the danger of the situation  and begins to fight for life. Fish for salvation must use any obstacle under water to get off the hook.

The angler, in turn, must control the tension of the fishing line, not letting it loosen. In order not to miss the prey, the spinningist must not allow the fish to go to the bushes or the closest snags. After the predatory fish has weakened, you need to quickly bring the individual to the shore and pull it out with the help of a landing net or a mound.

Retractors are difficult to call a panacea for all troubles when fishing for underwater representatives ichthyofauna on spinning. In most cases, fishermen recall such gear, when other options for fishing did not produce positive results. It is at such a moment that the bypass leash will help.

Catching pikes with a leash

Such a fanged predator, like a pike, is also beautifully caught on a gear with a drain leash. Given the powerful jaws of the predator, equipped with sharp, like a blade, teeth, it is better to use metal or kevlar leashes. Such tackle has proved itself well when fishing in freshwater aquatic plants that are overcrowded and rich in underwater vegetation.

For extraction of a trophy specimen of a pike, it is better to use a leash up to 35 cm long. This will allow to avoid frequent hooks. At the same time, the absence of additional cargo on the bait improves its game. On a rocky dump and in deep pits, a tackle with a branch leash also performed well, but the size of the catch is usually less than in the snag. If the catch will take place in clear water, the length of the leash increase to one meter.

The advantage of catching a perch on a retractable leash is maximum gear sensitivity, thanks to which it is possible to accurately determine the presence or absence of a predator.

1. Posting is carried out slowly in the local place.
2. The success of biting depends on the type of animation used when posting.
3. It is important to constantly experiment with the sizes and colors of the lure.
4. Great importance is the correct fishing line.
5. The coil should be inertia-free and not too heavy.
6. Good catches shows the separation of equipment.

For the manufacture of tap leashes fisherman it only takes a few minutes right on the waterfront. The only thing that in its arsenal should always be all the components for the assembly of such gear. But it is precisely thanks to this snap-in that the fisherman will never be left without a catch and will obtain the desired trophy.

I remember that in those years when I was just beginning to master the diversion leash, there were already enough publications about him, moreover, by authorship of famous athletes. It would seem, read, do the same and catch ... However, not everything is so simple. Even after a careful reading of several articles on side issues, there are more questions left than answers - starting with the selection of tooling elements and their connection into a single whole and ending with what, actually, to do on the pond. Years passed, a rather serious experience of catching with a diversion appeared, and the questions of novice fishermen remained the same - they are regularly heard in water bodies or fishing forums on the Internet. I'll try to correct the situation a little.

Fishing rod

There is an opinion that practically any spinning will be suitable for a branch - up to the Chinese “Crocodile” or a cutting from a mop with strapped rings. This is motivated by the fact that the special sensitivity of tackle is not needed here, and the weight of the load does not play a special role, so you can hang a “weight” weighing under a hundred grams. Perhaps, in some kind of “fishing Eldorado”, where not to catch fish is more difficult than to catch, this is true, but in Moscow waters, for example, a lot depends on the correct choice of each piece of gear, and the rod is no exception.

In my opinion, the best choice for the side will be a spinning length of 7.5-8.5 feet (229-259 cm). With shorter models, problems may arise when casting snap-ins with long leashes, and 9-10-foot spinning rods are already quite heavy, the balance is noticeably biased, therefore, it is tiring to carry out active wiring with the rod for a long time. The material and design of the handle - at will, as well as rings - any modern spinning is equipped with high-quality fittings, which should not cause problems. Test - depending on the expected conditions of fishing. With very light and very heavy sinkers it is not so often to catch, therefore a spinning with a dough to an ounce or a little more should be quite enough. Of course, if you have to catch mainly in standing bodies of water, the “wand” is better suited, with dough up to 18-20 grams. As for the system, it is very desirable that it be as fast as possible in dynamics, and semi-parabolic in statics. This will provide both the necessary range and good work of the rod when hauling fish.

If we talk about specifics, I currently use two spinning for fishing with a diverter - Hearty Rise Egi Force EB-792E (241 cm, up to 21 g) and Norstream Kando KDS-862M (259 cm, 7-28 g).

Coil and cord

To the coils of any special requirements, in fact, is not presented, so here you should focus on the general selection criteria - size, weight, lightness and smoothness, the presence of certain design features, etc. The only note is that the friction brake of the coil should work clearly under low loads. Leads, we will use thin, and "thoughtful" clutch will contribute to the cliffs of the fishing line on the hooking or hooks. I myself prefer Shimano reels, on the first rod I have the Aspire 2500 FA “meat grinder”, on the second - the Biomaster 4000 FB (photo 3).

However, the choice of a specific model is already a matter of personal predilections and financial possibilities.

With the cord, in principle, all the same - what you like, then use it. With a breaking load, of course, it is better not to be zealous - the casting distance will not interfere with us, and even if the fish are of trophy size, we will be caught as an exception. So 10-12 pounds is enough. In this case, I don’t see any sense in expensive Japanese PE cords, it’s quite possible to save money and put something more affordable, starting with Power Pro and ending with “braids” like Kosadaka Infinity, Salmo Elite Braid or Dream Fish Silver Braid.

Leash

One of the most popular questions about diversion is what to use for a bait leash: an ordinary mono-wheel or a fluorocarbon (fluorocarbon, for short - FC)? Frankly, I cannot give an unequivocal answer to this question - there are advantages and disadvantages to this and other types of woods. And yet, if you try to answer this question, the choice will be in favor of FC. And the matter here is not even in its theoretical lower visibility for fish - given the diameters of the wood used by us, this is unlikely to be of fundamental importance. The rigidity of the leashes from FC - is another matter. At first glance, there seems to be no particular difference compared to a conventional mono-structure, but the fluorocarbon leashes are noticeably less confused. The less stretchability of FC, which contributes to the increased sensitivity of gear, is also important. The sensitivity and the fact that the fluorocarbon fishing line has a negative buoyancy, and when wiring is not arched arc. It would be possible to write about its greater durability, but this is hardly important - thin leads from ordinary fishing line and FC are damaged in about the same way.

And again a little specifics. I use Sunline Siglon FC fluorocarbon fishing line or Colmic Shade with a diameter of 0.14-0.16 mm - for most conditions this is enough. I would not recommend the use of cheap FCs - most often they are ordinary mono-wheels, at best having a fluorocarbon coating.

As for the length of the leash, then the basis is to take the value of 1.2-1.5 m. The longer ones help out at very low activity of the fish, but are very inconvenient to use - they interfere with the throwing (especially in cramped conditions), and they get confused too often. With shorter, the situation is more interesting. Sometimes it makes sense to deliberately reduce the length of the leash up to 30-40 cm - the number of perch bites at the same time increases significantly, but it does not always work. In addition, in such situations, the fish is tolerably catchable and with a normal length of the leash. So you can have a couple of snap-ins with short leads with you, but if they are not there, nothing terrible will happen.

Sinker

Some manufacturers produce special-shaped for the diversion sinkers - elongated, curved, with a center of gravity shifted downwards (the so-called "Bananas"). If you meet them on sale - buy at least a couple of packs, they will not be superfluous in any case. Such loads almost do not cling to the bottom garbage, at the same time, providing the necessary range of equipment. If not, it is quite possible to use the usual lead "drops" with swivels, which are found in stores more often. They fly too well, but, unfortunately, quite often they get stuck in a wedge between stones, in snags, etc. It is difficult to fight this, so you just have to come to terms with unplanned loss of the sinker when fishing in areas with littered bottom.

A durable cargo lead helps to partially solve the problem of cargo loss - from a fishing line with a diameter of about 0.35 mm. You should not be afraid of the fact that it will be stronger than the main cord - because of its constant contact with the bottom, its strength drops quickly enough, and on hooks in most cases the leash will break. The optimal length of the cargo lead is 25-30 cm, it makes no sense to use longer or shorter ones, in my opinion. At the end of the leash, I make a loop that allows you to easily and quickly change loads when moving from place to place.

Hook

The hook for catching perch with a tap is perhaps one of the main stumbling blocks. We use miniature baits, and finding an “offset” for them is a whole problem. Usually, even the smallest off-sets are too large for 1.5-2-inch twisters or slugs. Suitable hooks for all parameters are, for example, Sasame (Rock Fish series) or Decoy (Worm 9 and Worm 11). That's just to find these hooks can be far from everywhere, and the price for them can scare potential buyers. From the “budget” models, I can recommend Kosadaka eighth (!) Number offset hooks, suitable for equipping even the smallest lures and possessing the necessary sharpness and durability.

Knit snap

Now, when we talked about the basic elements of tooling, it's time to combine them into a single whole. I experimented quite a lot with various schemes, and came to the conclusion that the simpler the applied installation is, the better. All variants with several swivels, in theory providing one hundred percent non-entanglement, are confused in practice after the very first casts. So let the swivel in the snap will be one. Double or triple - it's up to you to decide, this is not so fundamental and depends more on your preferences. The only remark is that the triple swivel should have the design shown in the photo, it provides the necessary reliability and at the same time avoids twisting the leads.

More and more fishermen began to be interested in how to properly mount a branch leash on a pike. I hasten to please you that you can catch not only pike, but also pike perch, perch, catfish, tench. This is such a universal tackle. It all depends on the bait you will use. Such baits as silicone, wobblers, vibro-tails, as well as edible rubber are well suited to the bypass leash. And this is not the whole list of baits and baits that can be used when fishing on the tap-off leash.

And so now go directly to the description of gear. Let you not be afraid of the name here, everything is just mounting the tackle that we offer can be made right on the knee while fishing, but it’s better to take care of it at home and do everything with a sense of alignment .

How to make a detachable leash yourself

Before you start collecting this equipment, you should understand what it will be able to give us when wiring. By understanding the principles of action, it will be easier for you to assemble it. This equipment allows you to feel good bottom of the reservoir, because the load is not mediocre along the bottom, but the bait at the very bottom. It all depends on how far away you are from the load. And so for fishing on such a tackle, you should choose a stick (spinning) sensitive to feel and understand where the brows are where the plain is, where the stall is, where it is worth prying, and where not.

Having collected opinions of fishermen in a heap, I can say that the best results were shown by a spinning length of 2.3-2.6 meters. This is the optimal length for using this gear. A short stick will not be convenient to overgrow because of long leashes, a long one will also not be convenient because of the weight of the spinning itself and frequent casts will tire you quickly and you will not have to talk about the pleasure of fishing.

If we figured out the spinning, then I suggest to go to the fishing line. There is only one advice. Take only braided. It does not stretch, it becomes less entangled, it does not have a large sail area and is very sensitive, well, in the sense that it gives to the fisherman’s hand well all the jabs and tugs of the fish, as well as the bottom relief. For those who make the first uncertain steps in fishing, you'd better take a braid about 0.12 mm thick. It is durable, withstands up to 8 kg and forgives small mistakes of a fisherman.

So we go well now we turn to understanding of the load that can be used. For this kind of tackle, many use droplets, cheburashki, sticks. In general, all that will be less cling to obstacles at the bottom. On sale there are special weights for fishing on the diverter leash. The cargo here has such functions, it is good to fly and there is nothing to cling to at the bottom.

Well, now directly installation of equipment. At the end of the main line knit cargo. Your cargo from 20-30 cm knit the leash to the leash knit bait leash. Swivels can be used for ease of installation. Also for leashes, choose a fishing line that holds less weight for breaking. That will allow you to keep the main line in the whole when hooking. For more details on how to install this equipment, see the video below.

Installation of a video tap driver

How to make a diversion leash for pike fishing

The installation of this tool for catching pike is slightly different from the main one. This is due to the fact that the pike has rather sharp teeth and it can bite your leash. Therefore, the lead should take metal.

When fishing for pike, you can use bait, silicone, twisters as bait. When using a twister as a bait, problems can often arise so that the twister on the harness spins around the main line famously, adding a small pellet as an additional load will help to solve this problem.

Catching pike on a branch leash is almost a classic wiring according to all the rules, pike attacks sharply boldly and it is almost impossible to beat such a jerk. As soon as you feel that someone has attacked your bait, do not waste time and immediately try to hook the toothed predator. Pike conducts an attack with lightning speed and losing 2-3 seconds you risk being left without a catch.

As the wiring is skewed when fishing on the diverter leash, there is practically no everything here, as well as trolling with steps we draw the bait along the bottom. You can also apply and classic wiring with stops.

The tip of the spinning is better to lift to the top thereby allowing the load to easily lift off from the bottom at the earliest opportunity. As the lure approaches you should spin forward a little bit, so the picture of what is happening at the bottom will be clearer. On how to do the wiring with such a snap, see the video.

What wiring to choose for the video tap driver